Recommended Solar Telescopes [Archive]

sil

12-01-2017, 08:14 AM

Lunt and Coronado solar scopes are very good. there is also now a daystar (?) eyepiece that can be used with existing scopes for solar viewing in Ha.
You dont look for features, you need to first define what you want to observe or photograph in particular then look for what the features of solar scope will allow you the best view.

I have a double stacked Coronado, and it came with its own eyepiece which is just fine. The various parts of the scope can be adjusted to help you focus on the features you want, its not just about moving the eyepiece, its a very different beast.

Lunt seem to have the best options if you want to go beyond Ha like CaK. A white light solar filter on a regular scope will give you a fairly flat sharp image of the solar disc and sunspots. Generally other features are not visible with this filter.

Just a warning, don't expect to see in the eyepiece the images you see online. The "affordable" solar scopes are filtered to Ha so everything is in shades of red at the eyepiece and can take a bit of time and practice to get used to. Tuning in on various features of the sun can be tricky to adjust to.

I think it just comes down to Lunt or Coronado. Since you asked I can assume you are not studying a particular feature in which case you would be able to answer the question yourself. I believe the eyepiece filter for regular telescopes are pretuned for either surface or prominence viewing, but a Lunt or Coronado should let you view all the suns features

pluto

12-01-2017, 09:38 AM

Hopefully I'm not hijacking the thread but looking at Ha solar scopes around that $2k range here (http://www.andrewscom.com.au/site-content-section-10-lunt.htm) I'm hoping somebody can shed some light on the differences.
Specifically why is a larger blocking filter better? (eg B600 vs B1200)
And what practical difference does pressure tuning make in these scopes?
Also would you get better views from a smaller aperture with PT vs a larger one without? (eg LS50THa/PT/B600 vs LS60THa/B600C)

Strawb

12-01-2017, 10:51 AM

I've had a PST, a Lunt 35, Lunt 60 PT and currently a Lunt PT 50 Double stack and I have to say the double stack is wonderful and easily the best. In single stack mode the resolution is obviously less than the 60mm but still quite acceptable (to me). By undoing the fitting on the B600 blocking filter and using a short adapter I can get focus on the full disk using the Gstar 3 camera no sweat at all even though Lunt recommend the B1200 for imaging.
I'm happy with what I have now - unless the wife lets me buy a Lunt 80DS ;)

12-01-2017, 11:34 AM

A larger blocking filter isn't necessarily "better" than a smaller one. The size of the BF determines at which point that filter starts to vignette the image produced by the telescope's objective. Because longer FL objectives produce larger images, the BF needs to increase with the focal length (not the aperture) of the objective used. The impact of using too small a BF is worst when you can't observe the full disk plus some extra space around it for proms (a fine sight), even when the scope and eyepiece would allow you to do so. I understand larger BFs are needed for imaging than for visual because of the sensor's different location along the light path. You might also need a larger BF if your scope is on a non tracking mount, to allow room for movement.

The "sweet spot" - that part of the view where detail is best - is said to be larger in a PT scope.
Generally I'd still go for the larger aperture. It will show more close up detail that's beyond the smaller scope, pressure tuned or not. However in your example the difference in aperture probably isn't big enough for that to be of any tangible effect, so PT might have a slight edge here.

12-01-2017, 12:03 PM

Hi Hugh, just another note - have you considered a Daystar Quark to use with your TSA? That combo should outclass the other scopes at anything except maybe full disk viewing (for which you could get a used PST and still be within budget overall).

pluto

12-01-2017, 12:48 PM

Actually I've just got rid of my Tak (I'll have to update my sig!) but I have definitely considered the Quark plus an ED80 or something. I have a 120mm f5 achro which might be alright with the Quark but I've read they work best when at around f30 so, taking into account their integrated 4.3x barlow, it would be better with something around f7.

Thanks for clearing that up. I used to have a PST so I'm familiar with how that worked, and the views, but I've had no experience with pricier dedicated solar scopes.

Also is the result of double stacking to increase the contrast? does it actually reveal anything that wouldn't be visible to a non double stacked scope? (something at 0.7A)

m11

12-01-2017, 12:56 PM

Hi all,

Thank you to everyone for their responses. Much appreciated.

I always appreciate fellow astronomers sharing their knowlege and experiences.

Can i ask if you all dont mind, a particular model of lunt or coronado?

Thanks again,

M11

12-01-2017, 01:24 PM

Hi Mel, the 50mm Lunts Hugh has linked to in his post (LS50Tha) are likely to deliver what you are asking for. B400 blocking filter will be fine, especially if not imaging. I note that Andrews are showing double stacked scopes in both pics for some reason. What you will get will look different. It won't have the dark red (tilt-tuned) front filter unit attached unless you specifically order a double stacked unit.

@Hugh - Yes, double stacking will increase contrast on the disk. By logic that should bring out features not visible in single mode, but because double stacking also dims the image, I haven't been able to answer that question for myself yet. So my inconclusive observations so far are that the amount of detail visible is about the same (but easier to see), and the image dimmer and more contrasty (some say more aesthetic), than single stack. Comparisons were made using the pressure tuned Lunt LS50Tha.

What was the lowest power you used in your PST - reason I'm asking is that the 10mm EP that came with my LS35Tha does not to that scope justice. Too much power, soft image. I use 18mm and 25mm orthos in that scope, and the views are superb. Single stack that is. Low power, of course.

It would be interesting to see how your achro (plus an extra barlow) would handle the daystar. More glass etc but probably still in a different class to the 50mm scopes. Alternatively, you could stop the achro down to f/7. Still better than 50mm, surely. I haven't tried either option myself but that's what I'd do if I was looking into H alpha gear at this point.

sil

12-01-2017, 02:15 PM

The one you can afford.

When I got mine it seemed they come in basically one or two sizes (models) then all the others are variations with improved contrast/viewing to each of the tuners for different solar features. so eg buying the cheapest model 60mm Coronado still lets you see all the same solar features as the most expensive 60mm Coronado, the most expensive should let you see various features a bit better. I've only used my solarscope so I don't know if there is much difference though considering the price differences. I seem to recall hearing the differences are not startlingly clear for visual but for photometry/research they are worth it. The size differences in practice give you a differing field of view, with my 60mm I can see the full disc of the sun at once. I guess the 90mm is best if you are studying a single feature. I can only assume the Lunt 60mm gives the same field of view too with i think around 25mm eyepiece. My choice came down to price, there was a great deal on Coronados at the time so I went with the most expensive my budget could handle at the time to give me best all round performance for my money. They are pricey both L & C and you'll have pretty much the same performance with either.

If you have children I would think carefully about going with Coronado as the metal gold finish is very distinctive while a Lunt looks like an ordinary white telescope and a yound mind might not comprehend the distinction in regards to safety and pointing telescopes at the sun. I retired my Celestron 102 refractor to use the tracking mount for my Coronado. With GPS and a bit of deep menu hunting the mount will track the sun nicely for me.

Viewing the sun tends to be far more convenient than getting up at 2am to check cloud cover ;)

pluto

12-01-2017, 02:48 PM

I had a 7-21mm zoom EP when I had the PST so 21mm was the widest I went. I loved the views but it gave me a nasty case of aperture fever, so I sold it knowing that one day I'd buy a bigger one ;)

I mainly want to image through it so I think I'd either go for the LS60THa/B600C or, more likely, the Quark (Chromosphere) as I don't really care so much about full disc views/images.

Thanks for all the info!

m11

13-01-2017, 07:30 AM

Hi N1

Thanks for that. I will look into that model. One thing i wasnt sure was if you need to buy different eyepieces?

Mel

m11

13-01-2017, 07:36 AM

Hi Sil,

Thank for all the info. All good points and alot of stuff i havent even considered.

One question i had is it worth the additional cost of double stack or pressure tuned? I see that the same model as you mentioned has these features. I would like to buy once but not sure if it makes a major difference in viewing as i have no experience with solar scopes?

Thanks,

Mel

pluto

13-01-2017, 09:07 AM

Hi Mel,
That LS50THa doesn't say that it comes with any eyepieces so you would need to buy something. Usually you go for an eyepiece that can show you a wide view of the whole disc of the Sun and then something that can show you some detail. Also you could buy a zoom eyepiece that possibly won't be as good as separate eyepieces but will make it a bit easier when observing. I had the Orion zoom and I thought it was pretty good.

I believe the duoble stack modules can be bought afterwards and then attached to the front of your scope. So you could buy that LS50THa now and then down the track if you want to spend more you can buy a double stack module for it.

13-01-2017, 10:26 AM

Hi Mel, I'll add that whatever eyepieces you might be looking at - you do not need to go out of your way for special "H alpha-suitable" eyepieces (such as the Coronado Cemax or Lunt's equivalent). If they come with the scope that's fine but otherwise you can just use regular night time EPs with the specs you want (and as suggested by Hugh) and won't miss anything. In fact, the solar scope with its narrow band and FOV of interest and f/7 focal ratio will be a lot more forgiving than the night time one when it comes to oculars - from a design perspective. They still should be of reasonable quality!

Big outlay for double stack version - considering even the single version will impress for some time, especially if you haven't done much in H alpha before. Probably best to wait with the DS module until you better understand the difference it makes and whether that difference is worth the extra cash, to you.

m11

13-01-2017, 06:38 PM

Hi Pluto,

Thanks for confirming that. I dont have a zoom piece as yet , will look yo acquire one and budget for that as well.

Ita good to know that you can upgrade your solar scope later. I didnt even consider that an option and was going to buy it all in one.

Regards,

Mel

m11

13-01-2017, 06:42 PM

Hi N1,

Thank you for confirming that i can use the same eyepieces which i can now put more towards the scope.

I might wait later for the double stack then and get a single scope for now.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your knowlege :thumbsup:

Regards,

Mel

AstroJunk

13-01-2017, 11:34 PM

I have the LS50THa/PT/B600 DS and would say that it is the perfect entry level Ha telescope. I have plenty of experience with other Lunt's and Coronado's (but never used a Daystar) and of course extra aperture gives better resolution - I believe that the 100mm DS Lunt is the sweetest of them all, more so than the 152, but as a single object instrument I'm not personally willing to part with that sort of $$$

The B600 blocking filter is worth the extra and makes the scope much easier to centre on the sweet spot both visually and photographically. I'd probably buy an even bigger BF if one existed for this scope.

The DS is critical in seeing the fine surface detail. Without it you will be looking at prominences and little else so figure it in to your purchase price. They can be in short supply too - I was lucky and got mine second hand.

m11

14-01-2017, 10:53 AM

Hi Astrojunk,

Thanks for recommending that model. Its good to know what to look for a scope.

Looking at Andrews , most scope dont seem to not have ds , i assume you need to add it seperately?

Thanks,

Mel

14-01-2017, 01:57 PM

Yes the DS absolutely does make the fine detail easier to see. OTOH, If I was seeing "prominences but little else" in single mode, I'd return the scope to the shop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQ0BzkCeItA

AstroJunk

14-01-2017, 05:06 PM

Cameras pick up detail in the far IR much easier than the eye. the difference between SS and DS visually is amazing. Cak is even more extreme - some people can't even see the violet disk and nobody can make out detail visually, but through a mono camera the detail is incredible.

AstroJunk

14-01-2017, 05:08 PM

It is possible to get it as an aftermarket addition. The one pictured has a red DS attached to it, but as you rightly say, isn't included.

AstroJunk

14-01-2017, 05:18 PM

Just for fun, here's my Mate Rob's Lunt setup which he uses for outreach:

L-R
152mm Ha DS
100mm CaK
100mm Ha DS
100mm White light Herschel Wedge

He uses cameras on the trio and folk get to peer through the eyepiece of the 152! (I was really rather impressed by the white light view BTW)

I was there when Andy Lunt came over from the US with his engineer to install them :)

Needless to say, you would have to sell a jolly nice car to buy that lot. I'm happy with my 50mm :rofl:

Atmos

15-01-2017, 07:25 AM

I've been eyeing off a 152mm DS, I just need to sell of my kidneys, lung and my spleen.

m11

15-01-2017, 08:26 AM

Hi AstroJunk,

Thabk you for confirming. At least i know what i need think about and consider. The DS module is not cheap to add. The lunt 60 with Ds included is already 5k :eyepop:

I might need to save up a bit more. :)

Mel

astro744

15-01-2017, 02:16 PM

I first got a taste of Ha viewing with a brief look through someone else's Coronado SolarMax 60. It was enough to get hooked into solar viewing and I then bought my own Coronado SolarMax 40 which is all I could afford at the time. It was one of the last of the earlier version (pre-Meade takeover) with full sized etalon and recommended to me over the PST for its narrower band pass and better focuser for both visual and photographic use.

I can see prominences and surface detail at the same time and I can enhance one over the other by tweaking the etalon and/or by focusing. The centre of the sun is slightly different focus to the edge. The band pass is 0.7 and with 40mm aperture it is a very good compromise to give both prominences and surface detail. If I were to double stack to get 0.5 band pass I would probably struggle for light with 40mm aperture but I'm not sure and it's a bit expensive for me to try and at this stage the current view is plenty pleasing with lots of detail visible. I use 25mm, 18mm & 12mm Cemax eyepieces with 18mm being my favourite but I also really enjoy the view with my 16mm Clave Plossl and 14mm Tele Vue Radian as the magnification is just about perfect.

Note as a single stack there is plenty of light with 40mm and the resolution is stunning. Buy the biggest aperture you can afford but don't be dismayed with lesser apertures as the view is quite pleasing especially for casual viewing of the Sun.

Whatever you choose, enjoy!

Merlin66

15-01-2017, 04:19 PM

Mel,
I've using and "modding" solar telescopes for the last seven years.
Used both single and double stack assemblies.
In my opinion start with a single stack. This will gives you good views of the proms and surface features.

15-01-2017, 06:51 PM

Hi Jonathan, not sure if that's the main process at work here - I didn't think the narrow Ha band even touches far IR?

Different story for the calcium K line, whose wavelenght isn't that far from UV and just about outside of what humans can see.

I understand not all single stack scopes perform the same, ie band pass width differs.

m11

15-01-2017, 07:01 PM

Hi Merlin,

Thank you for sharing. I guess now i am wondering is it really worth getting the double stack or buying more aperture as a single?

I guess i have been looking at it from the wrong perspective.

What would you recommend bang for buck is ideal?

Thanks again,

Mel

m11

15-01-2017, 07:08 PM

Hi Astro,

Appreciate you sharing your experiences as it helps me make hopefully a more informed decision.

I guess now wondering if a ds will make a huge difference in the view or is it more dependant on the aperture or band pass?

I am now leaning towards a lunt LS60THa/B600C, as the b1200 is $600 more if i was to get it now.

Thanks,

Mel

AstroJunk

15-01-2017, 09:44 PM

I was meaning to correct that - I meant far red, 656.28nm

16-01-2017, 07:48 AM

Hi Mel, try before buying if at all possible.
Yes DS makes a big difference but ultimately only you can decide if it's worth the money.
Both aperture and band pass determine how much detail you (easily) see, but they do this in different ways.

m11

16-01-2017, 08:23 PM

Hi N1,

Will try to do that.

Might wait to see if there any sales to allow me to get a decent scope hopefully with ds.

Appreciate all the help you have provides :)
Thanks again,

Mel

m11

16-01-2017, 10:40 PM

Hi Atmos,

I am finding solar is just as expensive hobby as my normal star gazing gear if not more so as I am viewing a singular object :rofl:

The 152 looks like an awesome scope :p

Mel

m11

16-01-2017, 10:47 PM

Just had a question regarding pressure tuning and whether its required? If I have an option, should I opt to buy a model with this? I am not too sure what it actually does?

Thanks,

Mel

AstroJunk

16-01-2017, 11:26 PM

All Ha scopes can (and need to) be tuned by altering the optical surfaces very subtly. There are three methods of doing this that I can think of, electronically (Daystar), by tilting (Coronado) or by pressure (Lunt mostly). Your scope may be a combination of those.

My 50 has a pressure tuned etalon and tilt tuned DS unit for example. The theory goes that Pressure tuning is better than tilt tuning (a bit of history - Mr Lunt designed and built Coronado then sold the company to Meade. His son Andy went on to produced a whole new range of improved solar telescopes using pressure tuned technology). Electronic tuning a la Daystar seems to be the best by far, but requires long fl scopes and can't get a whole disk view.

m11

17-01-2017, 10:58 PM

Hi Astro,

Thanks for explaining how the various tuning methods work.

It looks to me I may need to up the budget a bit.

Still deciding between double stack ls50 b600pt or single stack ls80. Would you still recommend a double stack?

Thanks,

Mel

m11

17-01-2017, 11:02 PM

Hi Astro,

Thanks for that. I enjoy learning new things and its always great to get
advice.

I have learnt a lot from everyone and need to choose within my new budget what to choose. Double stack lunt ls50 or push and wait for ls80 single?

Thanks,

Mel :lol:

astro744

18-01-2017, 07:44 AM

Hi Mel,

See discussion on Pressure Tuned vs Tilt Tuned at http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/472645-lunt-question-which-is-better-pressure-or-tilt-tuning/

and http://www.cloudynights.com/topic/488245-lunt-60-pressure-vs-tilt/

Not sure which is better although PT seems to get the nod with a few exceptions. I have TT and it works well for me but mine is Coronado with full size etalon (pre-Meade).

On double stacking note you can always add a second filter later albeit a some considerable cost but it seems this cost is already added if you buy DS up front. Note the LS60 was sold with a 50mm DS filter effectively reducing your 60mm single stack scope to 50mm when using DS. This option lowers the DS cost but now a full size 60mm DS filter is available.

Please clarify if you are considering 50mm DS scope vs 60mm SS scope or is it 50mm DS scope vs 80mm SS scope as your last two replies indicate. A big difference in cost between 50mm DS and 80mm SS but if this is your choice then I think aperture always wins and you can always add an internal DS module to the 80mm later (at some cost though). Lunt don't seem to have a separate 80mm separate filter.

What do you want to do with your solar 'scope?

Casual visual only with the occasional photo or video?
Frequent visual and photo study of the Sun?

If the former then the LS50 PT or TT, SS or DS will provide for many hours of enjoyment over many years provided it is looked after with care. If the latter then greater aperture will give greater resolving power and if you go SS initially you can always add a DS filter even years later.

I too highly recommend you look through a solar telescope if at all possible first even say a PST so you can see what the minimum aperture with broadest band pass will show and see if you like what you see.

Whatever you choose enjoy!

m11

18-01-2017, 09:02 AM

Hi Astro,

Thank for the link. The difference is in price between tt and pt is not huge as compared to ss and ds and what aperture you want.

I am looking at:

ls50/pt/ds - leaning towards this scope
ls60/pt/ss
ls80/ss

The majority of thr time will be visual only.

Appreciate your help in working out what is best for me. I generally buy to keep for a long time, dont tend to sell stuff.

Will try to get out to see through some solar scopes.

Thanks,

Mel

Atmos

18-01-2017, 09:20 AM

I was going through the same decision only a few weeks back, I've decided I'm eventually going to get a 80mm SS and then go double when I can afford the extra etalon.

m11

18-01-2017, 11:21 AM

Hi Atmos,

Yeah, its a tough decision as want to get a decent dcope first time and not want to feel the need to upgrade :rofl:

Happy to save a bit more to get the ls80 ss.

If you dont mind me asking, where do you plan to purchase from?

Thanks,

Mel

Atmos

18-01-2017, 12:51 PM

Haven't actually thought that far ahead yet, I'm still a ways off from purchasing. I know that atscope.com.au & Andrews Communications are two of the Lunt Solar Australian Distributors.

astro744

18-01-2017, 03:34 PM

Bintel is also a Lunt and Coronado dealer. Get a quote for both and see what you can get for your money.

Whatever you choose, enjoy!

m11

18-01-2017, 03:38 PM

Hi Atmos,

No problems, good to know as i prefer to buy local.

I have contacted Andrews for a quote :)

Mel

m11

18-01-2017, 03:39 PM

Hi Astro,

Will contact them as well. Looking at their new site it inly shows the pst , so will definetly give them a bell.

Thanks,

Mel

astro744

18-01-2017, 07:44 PM

Yes Bintel's old web site had pricing for the full Lunt and Coronado range but this hasn't made it to their new site. There are definitely authorised vendors for both and a great company to deal with. Ask them for some advice on selection too.

astro744

18-01-2017, 08:55 PM

Hi Mel,

Not sure if you've seen this http://www.iceinspace.com.au/41-641-0-0-1-0.html and http://www.iceinspace.com.au/41-672-0-0-1-0.html

Worth a read before you buy anything.

GUS.K

18-01-2017, 11:35 PM

Hi Mel, we are going into solar minimum now and aperture will be an important consideration in seeing as much detail as possible. Double stacking does provide a better view of any detail visible, but isn't necessary, a single stack scope can provide some excellent views as well. I've been doing this(Ha solar )for 7 years now and have looked through most of the Coronado and Lunt scopes, as well as the Daystar quarks. I have owned about a half dozen Ha scopes and etalons, and currently own two doublestacked scopes, an LS100 DSll and LS60/60.
If you can afford it, the LS80 SS would be the best choice if you're looking for a long term dedicated scope and you can add the DS unit later. The SS Lunt 80 has the best contrast uniformity of any of the Lunt scopes, due to it's larger internal etalon in relation to the objective lens (50mm, which is the same etalon as used in the SS LS100).
Another option is the Quark, can be used with most refractors, and can produce fantastic views, but not quite grab and go as a dedicated scope.
Whatever you choose, you'll enjoy viewing the Sun in Ha.

Ivan.

axle01

19-01-2017, 08:52 PM

Hey mate just read this and I came down from Townsville for the Sunday at the school, were you there and not sure if I met you.
I was set up with the two scopes near Ralph

Alan

m11

19-01-2017, 09:55 PM

Hi Astro,

Thanks for that, will definitely review the link.

There is a lot more to the solar stuff than I originally thought. Appreciate all the advice from everyone on IceInSpace and taking the time to share your experiences :)

Mel

m11

19-01-2017, 10:04 PM

Hi Ivan,

Thanks for that. Always good to get other people's experience such as yourself. I think I made it hard on myself as found that there are so many options and configurations to choose from.

Will definitely consider the ls80 as it was one of the solar scopes I was thinking of getting. Just need to double my budget that I was planning to spend. The price really goes up severely for the scopes and adding the ds doubles it again.

Speaking to the vendors in Australia they mentioned that Lunt has to be pretty much ordered and its a 6 month wait as well to get one. The prices also are pretty hefty :eyepop: Prefer to support local.

Thanks again,

Mel

m11

08-02-2017, 07:39 PM

Hi All,

Just like to say thanks to everyone for their advice and taking time to respond.

I ended up getting a Lunt ls60 tha/pt/ss as they had it in stock. Will look to ds at a later stage whwn finds allow.

I do have a question on focusing and getting detail. Not sure if i am doing it right?

I can get a sharp red ball but don't know if i should be seeing alot of detail as my understanding the sun is in solar minimum?
The focusing is a bit different with the pressure tuner and not sure i got it completely right. I thought i saw black dots on the left side of the sun but couldnt see it again as the focus comes in and out alot.

Thanks again,

Mel

Merlin66

08-02-2017, 08:03 PM

Mel,
I'm sure you will be very happy with the Lunt.
Focus first of all at getting the edge of the solar disk as sharp as possible.
The next stage is to tune the etalon to the center of the Ha wavelength.
As you say things are a bit quiet at the moment, but there was an obvious filament visible yesterday.
It takes practice but you'll quickly get the hang of it.

m11

09-02-2017, 12:33 AM

Hi Ken,

Thanks for that. Wasnt sure if I was doing something wrong?
Tuning the etalon is done via the pressure tuner. Do i just keep turning the tuner knob up until i start seeing details? Apologies for the newb questions?

Thanks,

Mel

09-02-2017, 07:33 AM

Hi Mel, as the manual says, make sure you equalise the PT to ambient pressure first by unscrewing the black cylindrical tuning handle.
At that aperture no matter how low the solar activity level, the disk seen in H alpha will never be completely featureless.
If you can see sunspots as black areas (that's what the black dots may have been) on an otherwise blank looking disk - sort of like a red version of a white light solar image - it's not on band yet and needs more tuning.

Nice scope, have fun!